How to Install a 2-Post Car Lift: Step-by-Step Guide
Posted by Juan E. Chavez on 29th Oct 2021
The Complete Guide to Installing a 2-Post Car Lift in Your Shop or Garage (2026)
A 2-post car lift is the single best investment you can make in your shop or home garage. It gives you full access to the undercarriage, exhaust, suspension, and drivetrain — and turns a back-breaking job into a comfortable, professional one. Every serious repair shop has one.
Installing a 2-post lift requires attention to detail and for most shops we recommend professional installation. But if you're a hands-on technician who wants to do it yourself, this guide walks you through every step — from verifying your concrete to testing the lift arms before your first vehicle goes up.
This is a general reference guide. Your specific lift model has its own installation manual with precise specs — always follow that manual first. For questions or to find a certified installer near you, contact JMC at 800-562-4791 or visit jmcautomotiveequipment.com/installations.
Before You Begin: Evaluate Your Space and Concrete
Concrete requirements
The most critical pre-installation check is your concrete floor. A 2-post lift puts enormous point-load stress on two anchor locations. Requirements vary by lift model and local rules. Before drilling, verify these specifications in the installation manual:
| Specification | Verify for Your Model |
|---|---|
| Concrete depth | Minimum slab thickness and any reinforcement requirements |
| Concrete strength | Minimum compressive strength and slab condition |
| Age of concrete | Required cure time before anchoring |
If the slab does not meet the requirements for your exact lift, do not anchor it. Have a qualified installer or engineer specify and approve any replacement slab or pad before installation.
Bay dimensions and positioning
Check the bay width, door clearance, ceiling height, and vehicle approach against the layout dimensions in your model's installation manual before marking the floor.
Receiving the lift
Check the shipping weight and unloading instructions for your specific lift before delivery. Arrange suitable handling equipment and personnel, then inspect the shipment and protect the hydraulic power unit while unpacking.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
Gather all of these before starting. Stopping mid-installation to find a tool is how mistakes happen.
- Access and lifting equipment specified for your model and site
- Hydraulic fluid approved for your lift model (type and quantity per manual)
- Tape measure
- Chalk line
- Drill and bit size specified for the approved anchors
- Level
- Socket and wrench sizes specified for your lift
- Torque wrench
- Vise grips
- Hex keys or socket-head wrenches specified for your lift
- Shims approved by the lift manufacturer
- Fittings and sealing materials specified by the manufacturer
- Dust mask and ear protection
- Safety glasses
Symmetrical vs. Asymmetrical: Know Your Lift Before You Install
Symmetrical lifts center the vehicle between both posts. Arms are equal length front and rear. Most common configuration for passenger cars and light vehicles.
Asymmetrical lifts (like the BendPak XPR-10A or Challenger CL-10 Versymmetric) rotate the columns slightly inward so rear arms are longer. The vehicle sits further back, letting the door open fully — ideal for trucks and SUVs.
Column orientation for each type is specific to your model. If you're unsure, call us at 800-562-4791 before you start marking the floor.
Step 1 — Pre-Thread Cables and Position the Columns
Thread the cables first
Follow the order in the installation manual for routing lock-release and equalizer cables. Some models require this before the columns are raised; others use a different assembly sequence.
Snap a chalk line
Measure the column spacing and orientation specified for your exact model, then mark the approved locations on the floor. Confirm the layout against the manual before drilling.
Stand and position the columns
Raise each column with an assistant — they're heavy. Align each base plate with the chalk line. Have your assistant hold the column plumb while you mark your drill points through the base plate holes.
Step 2 — Drill Anchor Holes and Set the Bolts
Drilling is the noisiest, dustiest part of the job. Wear your dust mask and ear protection throughout.
| Anchor Detail | Verify in the Installation Manual | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Anchor type and diameter | Approved hardware for this exact lift and slab | Using a different anchor can change its holding capacity |
| Hole diameter and embedment | Bit size, drilling depth, cleaning, and edge distance | Incorrect holes can reduce anchor performance |
| Shimming and tightening torque | Approved shim method and torque for the supplied anchors | Columns must be plumb and anchors tightened correctly |
Drill and clean each hole using the method and dimensions specified for the approved anchors. Follow the lift manual for edge distances, base-plate positioning, and installation sequence.
Install the supplied or manufacturer-approved anchors and shims exactly as instructed for your lift. Plumb both columns and tighten each anchor to the torque stated in the applicable manual; do not use a torque value from a general guide.
Step 3 — Raise and Install the Top Trough
After anchoring the columns, install the overhead assembly using the lifting method, personnel, and hardware specified for your model:
- Handling: Use suitable lifting equipment and support the assembly as the manufacturer directs.
- Assembly: Install all fasteners and safety components in the order specified by the manual.
After the overhead assembly is secured, complete the column and anchor checks specified by the manufacturer.
Step 4 — Install the Hydraulic Power Unit
Mount the hydraulic power unit at the location shown in your lift's installation manual. Install any supplied pads and mounting hardware as directed by the manufacturer.
Connect the hydraulic lines using the fittings and sealing method specified in your model's installation manual. Fill the reservoir with the approved fluid to the level or quantity specified for that model. During the manufacturer's commissioning procedure, inspect all connections for leaks.
Use only the fluid approved for your exact lift model and power unit. The type and fill quantity vary by manufacturer. Some models permit specified automatic transmission fluid (ATF); others require a particular hydraulic oil. Check the current installation manual before filling.
Step 5 — Route Cables, Lines, and Hoses
This step varies most between manufacturers — follow your manual closely. You'll route and connect:
- Equalizer cables — through the cylinders and over pulleys in each column, keeping both carriages synchronized during raise and lower
- Mechanical locks and release cables — assemble and adjust these separate safety components as shown in the manual
- Hydraulic lines — connect the power unit to both cylinders
- Power unit connections — use the model-specific hoses and fittings shown in the manual
Take your time. A misrouted equalizer cable will cause uneven raising and binding under load. If something feels wrong during your first test cycle, lower immediately and trace the cables before continuing.
Step 6 — Install and Test the Lift Arms
Lift arm installation is typically the simplest part. Slide each arm into the carriage slot and insert the headpin through the arm and carriage hole. Then:
- Install the snap ring into the headpin groove on the underside of the carriage.
- Confirm each arm is in the correct left/right configuration.
- If your model uses an Arm Restraint Gear Ring and pins, verify that they engage as the manual specifies. Arm restraints limit arm movement; the lift's mechanical locks are a separate safety system.
- Tighten the gear ring bolts.
- Swing each arm left and right by hand and feel for solid, smooth engagement at every position.
Complete the manufacturer's no-load cycles and safety checks before the first vehicle lift. Verify the arm restraints, mechanical locks, equalizer cables, and hydraulics using the exact model's installation procedure. Never use a person as a test load.
First Test Run Checklist
Before any vehicle goes on the lift, complete the manufacturer's no-load commissioning procedure. Checks may include:
- Run the no-load raise sequence specified by the manufacturer and listen for grinding, popping, or uneven hydraulic sounds.
- Visually confirm both sides rise at the same rate. If one lags, re-check equalizer cable routing and tension.
- Check every hydraulic fitting for leaks. Wipe dry and recheck after a second cycle.
- Lower fully and confirm both carriages descend at the same rate.
- Verify that the mechanical locks engage and release as specified in the manufacturer's commissioning procedure. Do not place yourself under an unverified lift.
For the first vehicle lift, follow the manufacturer's operator demonstration and inspection procedure, including approved lift points and mechanical-lock checks.
Installation time varies by model, site, and installer. If any check fails, stop and contact a qualified lift installer before using the equipment.
Need a Certified Installer Near You?
JMC Automotive Equipment works with professional lift installers across the US. Call us or visit the link below and we'll connect you with someone in your area at a fair price.
Find an Installer Near You →Or call us directly: 800-562-4791
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